Showing posts with label jewellery and accessories. Show all posts
Showing posts with label jewellery and accessories. Show all posts

Sunday, 16 September 2012

Elephant No. 350: Painted Gloves




There's a bit of a nip in the air today, so I decided to paint a pair of gloves. I'm surprised this had never occurred to me before, but when I saw a pair of painted Hallowe'en gloves yesterday, I realized me that the fingers of a pair of gloves might accommodate a trunk and tusks.

Some historical accounts suggest that gloves with separate fingers were worn at least as far back as the fifth century B.C.—and even earlier if you take Herodotus as absolute fact. These early gloves appear to have been purely practical, designed to protect the wearer's hands from injury or from the cold.

By the thirteenth century A.D., there was a guild of glovers in Paris, producing fine gloves made in skins and fur. Gloves had also become fashion accessories, particularly among women. Made of luxury fabrics such as silk and linen, fashionable gloves were often long enough to reach the elbow. Fancy gloves were soon viewed as a form of vanity, and laws were enacted in Italy against their use.

During the sixteenth century, gloves became particularly elaborate. England's Queen Elizabeth I wore gloves that were long, richly embroidered and even jewelled, setting the fashion for ever more fancy gloves. She was also quite vain about her beautiful hands, and developed a penchant for taking her gloves on and off, in order to draw attention to her hands.


Elizabethan goves, 1603–1625
Collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum, New York
Source: http://tudorstuff.wordpress.com/2009/07/29/
just-like-a-bird-thats-swallowed-a-plate/


Around this time, Parisian glovers began impregnating their animal hide gloves with scented oils. There was also a brief craze for strange leathers at the height of glove mania during the seventeenth century, including soft chicken skin and the skin of unborn calves.

A separate guild was organized for producers of knitted gloves, which were knit in silk as well as wool. Interestingly, knitted gloves were considered such a refined art that a five-year apprenticeship was required, and defective gloves were confiscated from their maker and burned.

Over the ensuing centuries, gloves have waxed and waned in popularity as a fashion accessory, but have maintained their position as a form of protection from injury, harmful materials, and the cold. There have also been many specialized gloves developed over the years, including driving gloves, latex gloves, kevlar gloves, gardening gloves, welder's gloves, cycling gloves, and gloves for use in Space.


Driving gloves made of peccary, considered the finest
material for high-end driving gloves.
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:
Peccary_Driving_Glove.jpg


For today's elephant, I bought a pair of very inexpensive knit gloves. These "magic" gloves are only magic because they're very stretchy.





Because I didn't see how I could paint these on my hands, I pulled out a pair of glove stretchers bequeathed to me by an elderly family friend. I'd never used them before, but today I was very glad to have them. Not only do they stretch the gloves, but they also keep the front and back apart, so the paint can't soak through to the other side. You could obviously also cut cardboard to fit.




I pulled the gloves over the stretchers.




I made a light sketch on each hand with a piece of chalk. I was originally going to draw a face-front elephant with the trunk running down the middle finger and a tusk on either side. Then I remembered the hand-print elephants I'd done some months ago for this blog, and decided to base my design on that configuration instead. This meant that the trunk would go on the thumb, and the four legs on the four fingers. Once I had a chalk sketch, I went over the lines lightly with white acrylic paint.





I used purple acrylic paint next, and quickly discovered two things: watery paint sucked right into the knit, and full-strength paint sat on the surface exactly where it was placed. I realized that it was likely going to take a while to layer enough paint on this surface to make the elephants show up against black.




After the purple, I layered on a few more colours, sticking to a palette of purple, blue, green, orange and red.




Because the design was still relatively light against the black of the gloves, I added a lot more paint, alternating between all the colours I'd chosen. It was a bit of a balancing act between ensuring bright colours and making sure that the paint wasn't so thick that it would crack when the gloves were worn.




Although this wasn't hard at all, it still took me nearly two hours to paint these gloves, which seemed like a lot of time to me. If I were to try this again, I would probably either paint on an underlayer of white, or slather on all the colours to make it a bit easier.




When I tried these on, the paint cracked a bit, but they looked fine once they were on my hands. I'm not planning to make multiple pairs of painted gloves anytime soon, but it was an interesting exercise, and I can see trying it again for novelty gloves, should the occasion arise.





Elephant Lore of the Day
Although temple elephants are a common sight in India, they're definitely a rarity in the boroughs of New York City. In 2009, however, an elephant named Minnie made a special appearance at the dedication ceremony for a Hindu temple in Flushing, Queens.


Minnie enters the temple, 2009.
Photo: Béatrice de Géa/New York Times
Source: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/14/nyregion/14temple.html?_r=1


As someone shouted "Make way!", a crowd dressed in traditional Indian dress parted to reveal Minnie, a 37-year-old Asian elephant from a petting zoo in Litchfield, Connecticut. Minnie wore an elaborate headdress, and was ridden by a Hindu priest carrying a large parasol. Unfazed by the noise of bells, cheers and chants, Minnie stepped off a curb on the opposite side of the street and made her way into the temple.


Minnie the elephant walking through the temple, 2009.
Photo: Béatrice de Géa/New York Times
Source: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/14/nyregion/14temple.html?_r=1


Because the elephant-headed god Ganesha is the remover of obstacles and the god of new things, elephants often feature in temple ceremonies such as this. This particular temple—the Hindu Temple Society of North America's Ganesha Temple—is not only dedicated to Ganesha, but is also one of the oldest and largest Hindu temples in the United States.

Interestingly, freedom of religion is enshrined in the laws of Flushing itself. In a 1657 document called the Flushing Remonstrance, the signers spoke out against religious persecution. The home of one of the early adopters of this philosophy—John Bowne—now sits on a street with two Hindu temples, a Chinese church, a synagogue and a Sikh gurdwara.

Minnie turned out to be much better behaved than a fellow creature which also took part in the ceremonies. A cow brought in the previous day was petted and fed unpeeled bananas until it suddenly decided it had had enough and had to be taken back outside. Minnie, on the other hand, tolerated noise, crowds, touching, fires infused with honey and spices, and cascades of water from above.


Minnie politely accepted even the offerings that fell on the floor, 2009.
Photo: Béatrice de Géa/New York Times
Source: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/14/nyregion/14temple.html?_r=1



Wednesday, 12 September 2012

Elephant No. 346: Chain Mail




I was in a beading supply store last weekend and was inexplicably attracted to a display of coloured jump rings. Normally I hate working with jump rings, so it was probably the pretty colours that really attracted me.

I liked the rings enough that I thought I'd try chain maille for today's elephant. Knowing how many jump rings I'd have to open and close, however, it occurred to me that this may have been a very bad idea.

Chain mail—also called "maille", "chain maille" or simply "mail"—is usually used to produce a form of armour made up of multiple small metal rings that are chained together to form a sheet of mesh. The origins of the word "mail/maille" are not certain. The most likely derivation is from the French "maillier", meaning "to hammer". Although the more correct term for chain mail is simply "mail" or "maille", I've used "chain mail" throughout this post to avoid any confusion.


Closeup of modern aluminum chainmail for re-enactors.
Source: http://www.raisonsbrassband.com/aluminum-chainmail-c-15_50_86.html


The earliest known European-style chain mail dates from the third century B.C., discovered in the burials of Celtic chieftains in Slovakia and Romania. Likely inspired by earlier scale armour, chain mail is commonly believed to be a Celtic invention. From Europe, chain mail spread to North Africa, the Middle East, Central Asia, Tibet, India, Japan and Korea.

Chain mail was introduced to the Middle East and Asia via the Romans. By the third century A.D. it was in use among the Sassanid Persians as a supplement to the scale armour already in use. Chain mail was also used for horses and heavy calvary. Asian chain mail was lighter than the European version, and sometimes even had prayer symbols stamped on the rings as an added form of divine protection.


Sculpture of Gallo-Roman soldier, ca. 3rd century A.D., known
as the Guerrier de Vachères for where it was found.
Collection of the Musée Calvet, Avignon, France
Photo: Fabrice Philibert-Caillat
Source: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Guerrier_de_
Vach%C3%A8res_%28profil%29.png


From the Middle East, chain mail was adopted in Central Asia and India. It was not widely used by the Mongols, but became the armour of choice in India, often used with plate armour. This combination was common in India until well into the eighteenth century.

In the Ottoman Empire as well, chain mail with plate armour was widely used until the eighteenth century, particularly among the Janissaries and heavy cavalry. From there, it spread to North Africa, where it was adopted by the Sudanese and the Egyptians. Surprisingly, chain mail was still being produced in the Sudan in the early twentieth century.

Although used to a limited extent in China and Korea, chain mail was most widely embraced by the Japanese. In fact, the Japanese had more forms of chain mail than all the rest of the world put together—including hoods, gloves, jackets, vests, shin guards, thigh guards, shoulder guards, and even tabi (socks with divided toes).


Japanese kusari tabi (divided-toe-sock armour), ca. early 19th century. The mail is
sewn onto leather in this example.
Source: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Kusari_tabi.JPG


The main advantage of chain mail was its ability to protect the wearer against slashing or stabbing by weapons such as swords, daggers and bayonets. A recent study at the Royal Armouries in Leeds, England showed that it was in fact almost impossible for a conventional medieval weapon to penetrate chain mail.

The ability of chain mail to withstand an attack depends on a number of things: how the rings are linked, the material that is used, how tightly the rings are woven together, and the thickness of the rings themselves.

Even the best chain mail, however, could sometimes fail. A slashing blow by a sharp sword at a perpendicular angle could cut through the links, for example, and large weapons such as axes could smash right through. Some countries, such as India, developed slender weapons able to find their way through the links in chain mail, and others focused their fighting techniques on finding a way around the chain mail, hitting the opponent in places which weren't protected by the metal mesh.

The mail itself could also add to injury. Because of the mail's flexibility, if a soldier was bashed in a place covered by mail, the mail could at the very least bruise the wearer, and at the very worst cause serious cuts and fractures.

Despite the various drawbacks, chain mail was highly prized. It was time-consuming to produce, making it expensive to own. As a result, it was often looted from the bodies of fallen soldiers. As weaponry advanced, however, chain mail was often supplemented with plate armour, and had largely fallen out of favour by the sixteenth century.


Warriors in chain mail from the Bayeux Tapestry, A.D. 1070. Note the looters at the
bottom, including a man pulling a shield from a dead soldier, and another stripping
an opponent of his chain mail.
Collection of the Museum of Reading, England.
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Harold_dead_bayeux_tapestry.png
 

In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, chain mail reappeared as a material for bulletproof vests, although it wasn't terribly effective. Not only could bullets destroy the rings, but the rings also fractured on impact, making the injury worse. During this same period, British soldiers fighting in the First World War sometimes wore a fringe of chain mail on their helmets. Although this proved an effective defence against shrapnel, it was unpopular with soldiers, and was ultimately abandoned.

Today, chain mail has resurfaced yet again, this time for a wide range of uses. Modern high-tech chain mail is used in gloves for woodworkers, police and animal control officers. It is also used in wetsuits to protect against shark bites, and gloves and body armour for butchers. One of the more unusual uses of chain mail is a sort of Faraday Cage suit worn by electricians working with high voltage wires, and people playing with Tesla coils. Chain mail is also, of course, worn by many historical re-enactors.


Chain mail glove for woodworkers.
Source: http://www.leevalley.com/en/shopping/AddViews.aspx?p=56154


Chain mail also has decorative uses. It is often used for epaulettes on military uniforms, and in film costumes—where it is sometimes not metal at all but spray-painted yarn or plastic. It is also used in art applications such as jewellery, mixed-media work, sculpture and even chess sets. So popular is chain mail these days, that there are a number of interanational clubs and forums where chain mail artists and practitioners can share their work.


Bracelet produced with a "Japanese weave" chain mail technique, by Rebecca Mojica.
Source: http://www.beadinggem.com/2011/02/chain-maille-book-review-chained.html


For today's elephant, I chose jump rings in two sizes: 8.5 mm and 6 mm. I had 100 of each, so hopefully that would be enough. These are copper with an enamel surface in a colour called "seafoam". It wasn't my first choice of colour, but there weren't many colours with both sizes available.




My first idea was to simply make an elephant shape using chain mail, which I could later use to make a brooch or something. Then I thought it might be interesting to make a chain mail head covering for an actual elephant. Obviously not a full-sized elephant—but at least something I could slip over a small elephant from my collection.

I decided to use one of the elephants generously given to me over the years. This one was a gift from my father, and measures about 10 cm (4 inches) in height.




Having never made a chain mail anything—not even a bracelet—I had no idea where to start. Should I measure first? Just link rings together and fit it to the elephant as I went? Since I hate measuring things, I decided on the latter method. My subject elephant is quite stationary and cooperative, so I figured I could just fit him as I went.

I loathe opening and closing jump rings when making jewellery, so some years ago I actually bought a little tool that fits on your finger like a ring. The idea is to place the jump ring in the slot and twist. I vaguely remembered using it once and not liking it, but I tried it again today. I didn't like it any better today. But that's just me. I ended up using my fingers and a small pair of flatnose jeweller's pliers.




Using the elephant armour in today's elephant lore as a model, I started with the top of the elephant's head.





I added a series of links down the trunk next, along with a few rings to stabilize the join between the topline and the trunk.





From this point on, I joined rings in any way I could. I saw that I was going to run out of the smaller rings fairly quickly, so I used the larger rings to fill up the space.

This was actually quite a complicated undertaking. The whole thing had a tendency to slip off the elephant's head, making it difficult to construct in situ. Worse, when I took it off and laid it flat, it was hard to keep track of where I was. Also, the elephant is not symmetrical, meaning that I couldn't necessarily do the same thing on each side.

Ultimately, I used a combination of flat work and fitting the piece directly on the elephant's head. I also used almost all 200 rings, which is rather surprising when you see how small the piece actually is. It isn't a work of chain mail art by any means, but at least it does stay on the elephant's head.




I didn't like chain mail all that much. It's fiddly and kind of tedious, and I didn't really see the point of it for someone like me. It also took me almost three hours for this little piece, so I think I'd rather just buy chain and link it together somehow. Some people create beautiful chain mail jewellery and armour, but it's definitely not for me.

On the other hand, should something invade my house and try to slash my elephant in the head, his headdress might protect him. A little.





Elephant Lore of the Day
Although elephants are normally thought to have a virtually impregnable hide, there are certain spots that are very thin and sensitive. This made elephants quite vulnerable to an archer's arrow in earlier centuries. The arrow might not have killed an elephant, but it would definitely madden him enough to cause considerable chaos and destruction.

In Central and South Asia in particular, war elephants were accordingly outfitted with armour, including chain mail. At the Royal Armouries in Leeds, England, there is a stunning set of elephant armour made with panels of sheet iron, linked together with sections of chain mail. Produced around A.D. 1600, this highly decorated suit of armour includes hammered designs featuring elephants, peacocks, fish and lotus flowers.

Some of the iron panels are missing, revealing the cotton padding that was worn under the armour to ensure the elephant's comfort. A good thing, too: so heavy is the suit of armour that it takes three people to lift the headpiece alone. It is the only known suit of elephant armour in the world.


Suit of elephant armour, ca. A.D. 1600, with inset showing detail of plates and mail.
Collection of the Royal Armouries, Leeds, England
Photo: © Ferne Arfin
Source: http://gouk.about.com/od/leeds/ig/The-Royal-Armouries-in-Leeds/
Elephant-Armor---One-of-a-Kind.htm


To Support Elephant Welfare

Friday, 7 September 2012

Elephant No. 341: Sunglasses




I was looking around at a dollar store for inspiration yesterday when I saw a pair of sparkly costume sunglasses. Because of the way the rims flared at the sides, it occurred to me that I might be able to use the sunglasses to make some sort of elephant.

The earliest sunglasses are thought to have been the walrus-ivory goggles worn by the Inuit some 2,000 years ago. Strapped onto the wearer's head, the eye coverings featured narrow slits which blocked most of the Sun's rays.


Inuit snow goggles, ca. A.D. 1200–1600.
Collection of the Canadian Museum of Civilization, Gatineau, Canada
Source: http://www.canadacool.com/COOLFACTS/QUEBEC/
Gatineau-OttawaSunglasses.html


The next recorded eye shades appear to have been panes of smokey quartz, worn in China during the twelfth century A.D. Not only did they protect eyes from the Sun's glare, but they also served to hide the facial expressions of judges in Chinese courts during questioning.

Around the middle of the eighteenth century, English optician James Ayscough developed eyeglasses with hinged sidepieces, and also began experimenting with tinted lenses. In Ayscough's case, the tinting had less to do with protecting eyes from the Sun, and more to do with his idea that blue or green glass might be able to correct specific forms of visual impairment.


Tinted "vision-correcting" glasses by James Ayscough, ca. 1752.
Source: http://www.chalmersopticians.co.uk/new/historyofsunglasses.php


By the early twentieth century, sunglasses were gaining in popularity, largely because of their use among movie stars. Some have suggested that actors wore sunglasses primarily to hide the red eyes that typically accompanied long hours of exposure to arc lighting in the early days of moviemaking. Others say that movie stars thought wearing sunglasses would prevent their being recognized by fans.

Which reminds me of an old joke that made the rounds when I was little (and probably many years before that):
Q: What did Tarzan say when he saw the elephants emerging from the jungle?
A: "Here come the elephants."
Q: What did Tarzan say when he say the elephants emerging from the jungle, wearing sunglasses?
A: Nothing—he didn't recognize them.
Sorry, I couldn't help myself.

The first mass-produced sunglasses in North America were introduced in 1929 by Sam Foster. He began selling his eponymous Foster Grant brand from a Woolworth's on the Atlantic City boardwalk, and the brand is still sold today.


Early Foster Grant sunglasses, ca. 1930.
Source: http://duggal.com/connect/fashion/fashion-fact-13


Polarized sunglasses, which cut the Sun's glare considerably and make colours more saturated, became available in 1936. The lenses were invented by Edwin Land—famous as the maker of Polaroid cameras—who adapted his Polaroid filter to eyewear. Polarized lenses work by blocking the vertical, or magnetic components of light, reducing the glare from non-metallic surfaces such as water and snow. They are particularly popular among athletes and fishermen.

Today's sunglasses have essentially built upon these early beginnings. Available in a bewildering array of styles, coatings, colours and prescriptions, modern sunglasses are designed to cut glare, protect the eyes from harmful UV rays, and even hide the eyes entirely.

The primary purpose of sunglasses is, of course, to protect the eyes against visible and invisible rays of light. Most protect, in particular, against ultraviolet radiation, which can cause temporary conditions such as snow blindness, and more serious conditions such as cataracts and eye cancer. Most experts recommend sunglasses that filter out 100% of UVA and UVB light, which have wavelengths up to 400 nanometers. These are the sunglasses labelled "UV400".

No sunglasses can protect the eyes from permanent harm when looking directly at the Sun. This is particularly important to remember during a solar eclipse, when it is possible to stare at the Sun without realizing the damage that is being done. In Space, because the Sun's rays are so much stronger out there, astronauts wear sunglasses with darker lenses than on Earth, including a thin coating of gold as added protection. The visors on their spacesuits are similarly coated.

Dark sunglasses are not necessarily more protective than light sunglasses. In fact, dark lenses without enough UV protection are actually more harmful than wearing no sunglasses, as they cause the pupil to open wider, allowing more unfiltered radiation to enter the eye. One of my friends used to call these "retina-burners", which I thought was rather apt.

Neither is lens colour any kind of guarantee. Although yellow or brown lenses are best at blocking harmful blue light, not all of them will block blue light sufficiently. Price also has very little impact on UV protection. A number of studies have shown that there is no correlation between high-priced polarized glasses and better UV protection. In fact, one study showed that a pair of $7 sunglasses from a drug store performed better than a pair of $300 designer sunglasses.

Today, sunglasses have become ubiquitous in every country on Earth. As a result, there are now numerous slang names for sunglasses, including the following:

Cooling Glasses: used in southern India and the Middle East
Glares: used in India to describe sunglasses with dark lenses
Glecks: used in Scotland for both glasses and sunglasses
Shades: used primarily in the United States
Spekkies: used in southern Australia
Sunnies: used in Australia, South Africa, Britain, New Zealand


For today's elephant, my idea was to dress up the glittery sunglasses I'd bought with similar sparkly materials.

These are the sunglasses I bought, which are kind of fun on their own—for Hallowe'en, at any rate.




To add to these, I bought some sparkly foam sheets, thinking I could at least use these to add ears. I wasn't sure how I was going to deal with the trunk, and the packages of foam sheets only came with one sheet of silver. I bought two packages, hoping I could eke these out somehow.




I started by laying out the sunglass rim over a piece of paper to make a template.




I fiddled with this a bit, then drew a smaller shape for the inside of the ear, which I planned to cut out in pink. I marked both so that I would remember to turn them over when I cut.




I traced these out on the backs of the foam sheets. These foam sheets are peel-and-stick, so they had a convenient paper backing.




Once I'd cut out both the ears and inner ears, I peeled off the backing on the pink and assembled them. I also cut two additional pieces of silver foam to cover the backs of the ears.




Using a hot glue gun, I now glued each ear to the glasses. I was careful to put glue only on the parts of the glasses that would attach to the foam. I also fiddled with the foam when I stuck it down, so that none of the foam would show through the lenses.



 


Next came the trunk. I wanted the suggestion of a trunk, but not something so ridiculous that it would hang off the wearer's face. I used a thin strip left over from one of the sheets of silver foam, and cut it in half. This gave me two pieces each measuring about 2.5 cm by 12.5 cm (1 x 5 inches). I peeled the backing off of both of these and sandwiched them together.




To finish up, I trimmed everything that had been sandwiched, so that the edges were tidy, and attached the trunk to the nosepiece of the glasses, using a glue gun. I also gave the trunk a bit of a curl. It's long enough now to give the suggestion of a trunk, but sits more or less on top of the nose without dangling over.





The main thing in designing something like this is ensuring that it will still be wearable. These glasses are a bit small for my adult-sized head, but they are wearable. The arms open and close freely, and the ears don't impede vision. The trunk is also very light and isn't annoying sitting along your nose. The main irritant about these is the amount of glitter scattered everywhere. And obviously this is not something you'd want to be seen in, except on Hallowe'en or at a bizarre masquerade ball.

It took me about 40 minutes from beginning to end to make this, including taking the photos, so it's very easy and quick. You'll likely never see me modelling sunglasses like this, but they're pretty funny—and very sparkly—in real life, so they'll probably be allowed to hang around here for a while.





Elephant Lore of the Day
In a previous post I wrote about an elephant being fitted with a contact lens after getting poked in the eye with a twig, but this is the first time I've ever read about an elephant having surgery to address cataracts and glaucoma.

At the Paignton Zoo in England, forty-year-old Duchess had become virtually blind due to glaucoma and cataracts. The worst part for her keepers was that she was suffering pain from the degenerative conditions in her right eye. A difficult decision was thus made to remove Duchess's right eye to prevent further discomfort.

A team of 15 veterinarians and other experts began by sedating Duchess. They then inserted a drip line and set up equipment to monitor her breathing and other vital signs. She was also given a local anaesthetic around the eye.

During the four-hour operation, ophthalmologist Jim Carter and the team removed Duchess's right eye, then sewed the opening shut. False eyes are usually not inserted in animals.


African elephant Duchess undergoing delicate eye operation, December 2011.
Photo: © SWNS.com
Source: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2075170/Huge-team-vets-
zoo-staff-UK-perform-eye-surgery-elephant.html


Following the operation, Duchess rose unsteadily to her feet, and began walking around her pen. Since then, she has made a full recovery. Although she still has a cataract in her remaining left eye, she is monitored constantly, and has been trained to lower her head so that staff can give her eyedrops to ease any discomfort.

In late August 2012, it was determined that the sight in Duchess's remaining eye was deteriorating further, and that she could likely distinguish between light and dark, but nothing else. It is now expected that she may undergo cataract surgery in the near future to help her regain a bit of vision, particularly for longer distances.

Interestingly, because elephants have notoriously poor close vision, and because they negotiate much of the world through sound, vibrations and smell, loss of vision is not as serious for elephants as it is for many other species.


Duchess at the Paignton Zoo in Devon, England, 2012.
Source: http://news.uk.msn.com/eye-surgery-elephant-may-be-blind-1


To Support Elephant Welfare